Shiatzy Chen is by many thought of as the Chanel of Taiwan – and it is easy to see why in some of the more rococo pieces of the AW17 RTW collection. One sees detailing of frills on the bust in classic, gentle colours such as ecru, gold and white. Indeed there are a number of beautiful, delicate-seeming dresses, skirts and even coats in an array of pastels and creams, sometimes in silk, sometimes in see-through materials and laces.
However it would be unjust and inaccurate to portray Chen’s AW17 collection only by these standard’s – AW17 is also very dark and romantic, with a very large number of all-red or all-black ensembles and trousers. In the first few opening pieces, one is confronted with some of the less severe pieces, all-black coats and jumpers with bright green and red detailing. To characterise the whole collection as playful would also be inaccurate as these are a few stand-alone pieces. Shiatzy Chen almost seamlessly transitions their AW17 collection from all black outer-wear to linear wave-pattern coats in multicoloured silks and furs, which slowly transitions to the thematic red and black and then in the blink of an eye the spectator is back to all red, presented by means of ruffled leather dresses, styled with red boots and fishnet tights which break up the otherwise monochrome (and even monotonal) outfits.
Segments of the collection are again separated by a larger than life multi-coloured, knee-length fur coat and we are brought in to see silver silks in traditional Taiwanese prints which gradually transcend by means of monochromatic pieces back into the more classic, gentler-coloured pieces which are romantic also but in their construction rather than their colour. All in all, a very charming and romantic collection.